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 A brief history of Willenhall

Willenhall as a hamlet has a history going back into the very mists of time. Anyone travelling from the south would stop by the two rivers [Avon and Sowe] to refresh themselves, before continuing on their way up the hill and through the woods, on to the town of Cofa ’s tree. Even as early as Roman times, when there was a fort at Baginton, the crossing of the river at this point would have been well known, and during the building of the A46 by-pass in 1987, a large amount of Saxon – Roman pottery was found in the Willenhall Woods, Little Farm area.

Later a safe place to stay would have been the chapel of Saint James, which was built around 1130, as a place of rest and prayer on route to the Coventry Priory and Cathedral. Remember that Coventry at the time of Godiva, was a place of pilgrimage to the churches which held holy relics such as:

The arm of St Augustine of Hippo, St Osburg’s head, and various other relics belong to Becket, St Cecilia, St James and St George, St Jerome , St Andrew, St Lawrence and St Katherine. The churches in the City were also said to hold a part of the True Cross and a piece of the most holy jawbone of the ass that killed Abel, but like much of England’s history you have to read the fine print.

The name Willenhall, Wynall or Winall,  signifies :-

“A remote valley containing willows”.

The chapel of St James, in Willenhall, is confirmed within documents as the property of Coventry Priory in 1183-4, when hay was sold from the estate. The site of the chapel is indicated in the survey taken at the time, as being [in today’s landscape] north of the cottages at the corner of London Road and St James Lane , and south of Chapel Farm. This leaves those who wish to pinpoint the site with a very large area of farmland to cover. By overlaying all the available maps which indicate the position of the chapel, the group have found what may be the possible site for the chapel. Strangely enough, it is a small area of land in a newly built- up area of the estate, which has been left grassed.

The Manor of Willenhall was confirmed in 1221, within letters to the Priory. It was in the hands of the Willenhall family, who remained tenants until the early 15th century. In 1257, the land was held in two parts, the Priory holding 3/4 of it, and John Hastings, Lord of Allesley, holding the other 1/4 . The Priory had two free tenants, each holding half-varage: Robert, son of Geoffrey Willenhall, holding the water mill called Finford Mill, and John Cross, holding the other half.

The hamlet consisted at this time of six cottages with eight villein tenants, living on these lands. During the 13th century, agreements between the Abbot of Combe and Robert Joilin of Binley, defined the boundaries and common rights. The Priory estate was stable for over 250 years of its recorded history: in 1279 there were 16 tenants on the land, one owner being John CROSS, who owned some of the land prior to his son [Henry] selling it to Henry BARR of Coventry in 1339. A short time later, he bought it back again.

In 1360 the Willenhall family tried to lay claim to the lands, and those of Cheyelsmore Manor. When John WILLENHALL died in 1365 the land was held in honour by the Earls of Chester . The Priory retained wardship of the young heir while Thomas WILLENHALL [apparently John’s brother] unsuccessfully pursued a claim against the estate.

In 1410 the Priory enclosed the wood and the pasture of plain and wood between the tenants and the Priory, thus depriving the tenants of their pasture. Only the Willenhall family retained their rights within this area through specific leases of wood and pasture land. However, the tenants’ rights were not done away with completely, as they still had the common lands of Willenhall Green and Willenhall Common to graze their cattle on.

The tenants were made to do work for the Landlord; in the Willenhall area this was light work. The holders of half and quarter virgates, spent two days mowing, collecting and carting the hay, and two days reaping the harvest. The cottagers did three days of stacking and collecting the hay, the crop and any other saleable foodstuffs, all of which was then carried to Coventry for sale.

Occupations other than farming in the area mentioned within documents are: Two millers at Finford, two carpenters [of Willenhall] who in 1280 took a lease on Alderford Mill in Pinley,  Richard WILLENHALL who was a cobbler during the 14th century, and the Collins family who were Smiths. The earliest pub [found to date] was the Crown Inn on St James Lane , which appears in 1795, and is on Mr Eagles ‘ Toll Road ’ map of 1795.

The Black Death [1348] unlike many other small villages appears to have had little or no effect on Willenhall, as the rentals remained the same before and after. The villagers must have got away extremely lightly through this dark period of British history, when bubonic plague killed nearly one third of the county’s population.

The number of people living on the land also remained stable at around 16 tenants until 1539, when it fell to just 13. With the dissolving of the Priory in 1544, the estate was given to Sir Richard LEE, who re-granted it until John HALES of Coventry , held possession until the 18th century.

The bridges over the Avon , at the southern boundary, and the Sowe, appear in records dating from as far back as 1410. By 1535, there was a stone bridge with five arches on the London Road crossing the river Sowe. A line of banks west of the present Dell Close, suggests that the stretch of this road which was called Weeping Lane , ran up from the Willenhall Bridge to the east of the present road and aligned with St James Lane . The Turnpike Company laid out the modern road in 1724. In 1759, a Mr I Eagle drew up a plan of the road, which also shows the original route before the seconded turnpiking took place.

The road was to become the source of continual arguments, between the Company, Coventry Council [Leet], Foleshill Rural Council, Warwickshire Council and the inhabitants of the village, due to the high costs of upkeep and repair for which they were held responsible. This road was the main route for the heavy traffic from London to the port of Holyhead and all routes north. The road was therefore subjected to many overloaded vehicles each day, and all would have to stop at Toll Bar End, to pay the toll man the dues. The position of toll collector was in later years auctioned annually, so it appears to have been a profitable occupation.

The population of the village remained from 1539 to 1644 at just 13 houses; in 1730, it rose to 15, and with the opening of the turnpike, slowly increased to 126 in 1801. In 1814 the large Willenhall House was built, with its own extensive walled gardens which supplied the house with fresh vegetables. At the same time it appears that some of the cottages in the village centre disappeared and were replaced by the Manor and Grange Cottages.  In the 1830s the farms in the Willenhall area were as follows: Hall, Upper [later called Little], Lower, each of 100 to 200 acres. Willenhall House, Packwood’s, Chapel, and Crown Farms were each under 100 acres.

The railway line cutting part of the old estate in two would not have taken the route it does today, if plans by the London & Birmingham Railway had materialised. Coventry would have been by-passed by a southerly route through Oxford and Banbury. However, George Stephenson’s recommendations and his successful Act of Parliament [6th May 1831] placed the line in the position it holds today. The first passenger train made its inaugural journey on the 9th April 1838, for the grand opening of the line.

The number of villagers stayed around the 100 to 110 mark during the period until 1841, when the census shows a population of 106. The 1851 census shows 107, the 1861 shows 108, but by 1871, the number had dropped to 104. The population increased to 120 by 1881, then dropped again to 106 by 1891. The number of inhabitants appears to have been maintained at this level until 1921 when a slight increase of 13 took the total to 129 inhabitants, living in just 25 houses. The narrow London Road and the bridge over the river Sowe, were widened in 1930 to the present size, at the same time removing the start of the Folly Lane , which led all the way up the present Humber Road into the City.